10 Essential Places to Visit in Gyumri, Armenia’s Florence
Gyumri: Armenia’s Florence
Armenia’s Cultural Capital is an Epicenter of History,
Culture, Art, Religion, and Architecture
Gyumri is to Armenia what Florence is to Italy: an open-air museum suspended in time. It’s no wonder that the second-largest city in this ancient land is called Armenia’s cultural capital.
Archaeological excavations conducted throughout the Soviet period have shown that the area of modern-day Gyumri has been populated since at least the third millennium BCE. The area was mentioned as Kumayri in the historic Urartian inscriptions dating back to the 8th century BCE.
On 25 June 2016, Pope Francis delivered a Holy Mass at Gyumri’s Vartanants Square. Catholicos of All Armenians, Garegin II also took part in the ceremony.
Gyumri has been a pivotal city in the region, desired by empires and setting trends throughout the region. The city’s original name was Kumayri. Over the course of its long history, Gyumri survived a lot: inclusion in the Persian empire, conquest by Tamerlane, and then by Turkic tribes… In 1813, the city was included in the Russian Empire and renamed Alexandropol after the Russian empress Alexandra Fyodorovna. A hundred years later, Armenia became part of the USSR, and the city was renamed Leninakan. When Armenia became independent in 1991, Gyumri regained its historical name. Despite two significant earthquakes — in 1926 and 1988 — the city still managed to preserve its stunning beauty and unique Armenian architecture and remain a top travel destination.
I took the express train from Yerevan to Gyumri and spent three days there. I was fortunate to get a tour from Armen, a representative from the Travel Gyumri Visitors Bureau who was a native to the city. Armen took me around town and described the significance of every significant building.
Sev Berd (Black Fortress)
Perched on a hill overlooking Gyumri, Sev Berd is an imposing Russian imperial fortress built in the 1830s. Although damaged by earthquakes, the fortress remains a dominant silhouette against the skyline, symbolizing Gyumri’s resilience.
Vartanants Square
Vartanants Square or Vardanants Square, is the large central town square in Gyumri, Armenia. It is bordered by Abovyan street from the west, Gai street from the north, Shahumyan street from the east and Vahan Cheraz street from the south.
The square was opened during the 1930s under Soviet rule, based on the original plan of Alexander Tamanian and the revised plan of D. Chislian. The square is decorated with several fountains with a memorial to the Battle of Avarayr at the central part. The memorial was erected in 2008 and includes a group of historic Armenian figures who led the Armenian army’s campaign against Sassanid Persia. The equestrian statue of Vartan Mamikonian is erected at the center of the memorial. The other four statues depict the Catholicos Hovsep I of Armenia, Ghevond Yerets, V. Mamikonian’s mother and the prince Arshavir II Kamsarakan.
On 25 June 2016, Pope Francis delivered a Holy Mass at the Vartanants Square. Catholicos of All Armenians Garegin II also took part in the ceremony.
Cathedral of the Holy Mother of God, also known as the Our Lady of Seven Wounds
Also known as Yot Verk Church, The Seven Wounds is the oldest surviving church in Gyumri. Built in the 19th century, it is a testament to the city’s enduring Christian heritage. The church, which has an external rectangular shape, belongs to the Cruciform style of Armenian churches and was built between 1874 and 1886.
Since its inception, the doors of this church have never been closed to believers. Along with the Cathedral of Etchmiadzin, it was one of the very few churches in Eastern Armenia that operated during the Soviet-era anti-religious campaign, as most were closed or destroyed. Many believe the icon of the Virgin Mary kept here helped protect the church, as it was widely respected. The icon of the Virgin is depicted on parchment and, according to Ghevond Alishan, was created by Luke the Evangelist and brought from Western Armenia (present-day Turkey) to Armenia by Poghos Vardapet Janlatyan. Before reaching Gyumri, the icon was placed in various monastic complexes in the Shirak region and at the Mother See of Holy Etchmiadzin.
All Saviors Church
All Savior’s Church, also known as Surp Amenaprkich, is a domed basilica in Gyumri, Armenia, that was built between 1858 and 1876. The church was designed by Tadevos Andikyan, a local master mason, and was inspired by the Cathedral of Ani.
The church was built to accommodate the city’s growing population and religious diversity, and to reflect Gyumri’s status as a cultural, military, and trade center. The church survived a 1926 earthquake, but was confiscated by the Soviet government in the 1930s. The belfry was destroyed in 1932, but restored in 1964. The church was used as a museum and concert hall during Soviet rule. It was severely damaged in the 1988 earthquake and has been under renovation since 2002.
The church is near the Saint Michael chapel, the former Russian Saint Nicholas chapel. There is also a monument at the back of the church that commemorates its reconstruction.
Museum of National Architecture and Urban Life
Housed in a beautifully preserved mansion dating back to the 1870s, this museum provides insight into Gyumri’s history, culture, and architecture and highlights the city’s urban development throughout the ages.
Gyumri’s Historic Districts
The Gumri historic district, also known as the Kumayri Historical and Cultural Museum-Reserve, is the oldest part of Gyumri with its own unique architecture. It has more than a thousand buildings dating back to the 19th and 20th centuries. The district is one of few places in Armenia, and the world, with authentic urban Armenian architecture. Almost all the structures of the Kumayri district have survived the two major earthquakes in 1926 and 1988 respectively. The historic district of Kumayri occupies the central and western part of modern-day Gyumri.
The historic district contains around 1,600 monuments of cultural significance that occupy the streets of Gorky, Abovyan, Rustaveli, and Vardapets.
Abovian Street
This street is part of the historical district’ Kumairi,’ which is a perfect example of the old city during its best times. The buildings on Abovyan Street are built with black tuff. The distinctive architecture gives this street a unique charm. Windows, walls, and main entrances are decorated with elaborate and skillful carvings on the stones that transform every house into a particular work of art.
Mother Armenia
The Mother Armenia monument in Gyumri is a prominent Soviet-era landmark located in the southwestern part of the city, adjacent to the historic Black Fortress. Installed in 1975, this monument is a must-visit for those interested in Soviet monuments and art, making it an essential addition to any tour package in Armenia.
The statue was officially unveiled on May 9, 1975, to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the victory in the Great Patriotic War and to honor the memory of the many residents of Gyumri who participated in the war. The monument, designed by sculptor Ara Sargsyan and architect Rafael Yeghoyan, stands as a harmonious blend of architecture and sculpture, consisting of a 21-meter-high pedestal and a 20-meter-high statue.
The Gyumri Brewery
The brewery was established in 1898, making it the oldest beer factory in the country. It has significantly contributed to the local economy and has become a popular brand in Armenia.
The brewery produces several beer brands, including its flagship brand, Gyumri Beer. It also offers different varieties, such as Gyumri Premium, Gyumri Light, Gyumri Dark, and Gyumri Wheat.
The Gyumri Brewery offers tours and tastings if you want to learn about the beer production process and experience its products firsthand. You can tour the brewery facilities, see the brewing equipment, and sample different beers during these tours.
Central Park
Gyumri’s Central Park, or Gorki Park, is located in the heart of the town. It is a lovely green area with walking alleys and children’s amusement facilities. Besides the amusement attractions, you can find many statues and monuments while walking through the park. The Greek-styled white monument of vaults is the best place to take a picture and admire the Mother Armenia Statue, Black Fortress, and other sites within Gyumri. The statue was created by sculptors Ara Sargsyan and Jeremy Vardanyan, and the architect is Rafik Yeghoyan. It was located in the southwest part of the city in 1975.
How to Get From Yerevan to Gyumri by Train, Bus, or Taxi
Gyumri has become a popular destination in the last few years, having landed a few flights from Western Europe for the first time. But reaching Gyumri from Europe is a challenge if you’re in Memmingen, Germany, or Athens, Greece (seasonal flights). The easiest way to get there is by coming from Yerevan.
Train
There are three different options for getting to Gyumri from Yerevan. The first option is the fast express train. This modern train takes just over 2 hours and 10 minutes. The second is the slower, Soviet-style train. This train takes about 3.5 hours in total and is not the most comfortable option. You can also use the electric train, which also takes around three hours.
Bus
The best option for getting to Gyumri is the express train. But, if you’re not heading there on a weekend and not keen on the old train, taking a minibus (marshrutka) is a viable option, too. You can catch the bus to Gyumri at the Yerevan Train Station beside the horse statue outside of it. There are also some minibuses leaving from Kilikia Bus Station.
Taxi
If you’re not on a tight budget, getting a taxi from Yerevan to Gyumri may be a fantastic option. It will give you the comfort of being in a private vehicle and can take you from point A to point B without navigating to different train or bus stations.
Tour
Another reasonable option for getting to Gyumri from Yerevan is to arrange a tour. Several tour companies in Yerevan can arrange tours for various budgets.